You may find basic tuning information here regarding what tuning options do and how to fix minor handling characteristics that may not perfectly match your driving style or track conditions.

     To get started with tuning, you may want to prepare yourself with these basic tools that will cover most adjustments on most models:

• Hex bit set or Allen wrenches, metric, 1.5 - 3.0mm
• Small metric nut drivers (5.5mm is an important one to have for the RC8)
• Small metric wrenches (for where nut drivers can't reach)

• Damper (or shock) oils; weights between 25 and 50 should do for most
• Differential fluids
• Tire glue (Super glue works great)
• Isopropyl alcohol, for cleaning (Not the car body)

Tuning - Cause and Effect

Dampers/Springs

Stiff springs

Well suited to smooth surfaces, stiffer spring rates will make the vehicle more responsive, and also improve it's jump capability by making it harder to bottom out from weight transfer while approaching the crest of a jump.

Soft springs

Soft springs are suited to terrain with many small, mild bumps. Low spring rate help prevent the vehicle from bouncing too much and provide a more stable ride across washboard conditions.

Heavy damper

Thicker oil or smaller piston holes will make damping heavier. This makes the model more stable and is the largest factor in preventing the chassis from hitting the ground upon landing a jump. If it is too heavy, the dampers can not react quickly enough to bumps resulting in a rough, unpredictable ride.

Light damper

Thin oil and large holed pistons result in a more 'springy' feel. This is better for bumpy sections, or if you need the model to set the body roll quicker for handling on high traction surfaces.

Tuning - Basic How-to

Change Damper Oil

Here is a generic step-by-step guide to changing the oil in your dampers. This will work for most models.

1. Remove top and bottom bolts from damper assembly. These are normally 2 or 2.5mm.
2. With damper in hand, the spring retainer can be lifted up off of the end link, then pulled to the side to free the spring from the damper.
3. Next, unscrew the cap from the top of the damper body. This should be doable by hand.
4. Once removed, make sure you keep the rubber bladder clean. This normally stays in the cap, but will frequently stay on the damper body.
5. Dump the spent silicone oil into a container or mass of paper towels for disposal. This stuff is pretty nasty, so I recommend gloves for the rest of the process. Exercise the piston a few while inverted to remove as much old oil as possible.
6. If the seals in the bottom of the damper look fine, simply refill with your choice of silicone oil weight to about 1/8 of an inch from the top of the damper body.
7. Slowly exercise the piston in the oil to free any trapped air.
8. Make sure oil level is still 1/8" from the top, put bladder neatly and fully into the cap, and reassemble everything the same way you took it apart.
9. Congratulations, you now have a fresh damper.